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Our annual Top 20 Whiskies list is always filled with A-list names, along with a few lesser-knowns that make the grade. But it’s unusual for one of the latter to outshine the entire field, yet that’s precisely what happened this year, as Whisky Advocate’s panelists plucked a relative unknown from a group of big-name contenders. As we tasted, little did we know there was an upset in the making. Winning in a nearly unanimous vote, single malt scotch Glenglassaugh Sandend became our 2023 Whisky of the Year.Glenglassaugh Distillery is situated on the north coast of Scotland, perched upon high ground overlooking the North Sea. The whisky is often described as a “coastal” Highland malt, which seems a fair assessment. This non-age statement expression, named for the bay offshore, is bright and delicate, with aromas of citrus and minerality leading to a luscious palate filled with layers of flavor revealing peach, apricot, honey, pound cake, and vanilla, all accented with a touch of sea salt. Rolling spices help create an explosive, long-lasting finish. It’s gentle yet complex, but above all it’s an easy sipper you can just sit back and enjoy. And at $70, it represents pretty fair value for a single malt scotch.
Why is Glenglassaugh so little known? Primarily because it has spent more time being closed than open in its nearly 150-year history. Founded in 1875, it was shuttered in 1907 for 53 years. It then reopened only for brief periods before closing in 1986, this time seemingly for good. But in 2008 Glenglassaugh was purchased by an investor group that restarted production, and it subsequently was acquired by Jack Daniel’s owner Brown-Forman in 2016. It still hadn’t been heard from much until recently, because stocks needed replenishing. But now Glenglassaugh is ready to roll, and judging by this stellar release, patience is being rewarded in spades. —David Fleming
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