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(-)-Ambroxide from Kao
The same molecule as Ambrofix and Ambroxide. It is, along with Ambrinol and a couple of others, the principle odorous molecule present in the scent of natural ambergris. The scent of this material is nearly identical with that of Ambrofix but a different manufacturing process means it has a slightly more animalic character than the Givaudan product. In most applicatioins they can be freely substitued for on another.
The odour description from Kao is rather succinct: ""Typical ambergris note"" however their suggestions for application of their product reveal a bit more: ""Ambroxan gives warmth , volume and sweetness to all fragrance types even in a small amount. It also gives remarkable diffusion on top and excellent substantively on bottom.""
Description from Givaudan of their very similar product: “Ambrofix is a highly powerful, highly substantive and highly stable ambery note for use in all applications. The most suitable material for obtaining an authentic ambergris note. Produced from a natural starting material, this chiral product contains one main high impact isomer.”
The natural starting material they are talking about is Clary Sage, from which sclareol is extracted and transformed into this material.
Arcadi Boix Camps says of this molecule: ""Of all the surprising products that exist, this one perhaps incorporates the most beauty. It has been identified as one of the most noble ingredients of natural ambergris, and it imparts an outstanding, and extremely powerful, radiant note of amber. It is universally used either directly or in a form of bases that include it as the well known Fixateur""
Effective from the smallest traces, through to 2% or even more and lasts for over a month on a smelling strip. One of the most useful chemicals in modern perfumery, this molecule is incorporated into both our Ambergris Accord 1 - Authentic and Ambergris Accord 2 - White as well as our Woody Base and others.
It comes in the form of fine crystals that will dissolve in ethanol and other perfume materials. Note however that at concentrations above about 5% in ethanol or DPG it tends crystallise out at lower temperatures. Ambroxan will dissolve reliably in ethanol up to about 10% in a warm room, but it takes a lot of agitation: we don’t heat the solution (heating alcohol creates a fire risk) but we do use an automatic stirrer because it takes so long: be prepared to do a lot of shaking or stirring if you don’t have a machine to do it for you, or alternatively select from our 5% in DPG and 10% in DEP pre-disolved options.
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