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Lavender, rose petal, white pepper, this wine delivers a smooth, rosé-like refreshment. Foot-trod grapes, semi-carbonic maceration, and 10 months aging in vat, less than 20ppm of sulfur added at bottling. So much of my love of Pineau d'Aunis comes from Nathalie's wines. She and her late husband Christian Chaussard started Le Briseau in 2002, after Christian was fired from his job as an instructor of oenology for basically telling students how to make natural wine (the term didn't exist then). With over two decades of hard work in her vineyards, Nathalie is one of the most important figures in rescuing Pineau d'Aunis from obscurity. Jonathan Kemp

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