<p style="text-align: left;">   This is a Bolt On Coil Spring, Link Suspension conversion for a 1972** - 1993 dodge truck frame (1/2 ton, ramcharger, 3/4 or 1 ton, 2wd [*] or 4wd) designed to utilize a donor axle and coils from a 03-12 2500 or 3500 dodge. 3-6” of lift height (will work for more but ideal settings, based on spring choice and coil adapter height).<br>   It will get rid of all existing original suspension and it’s traits like stiff leaf springs, and replace them with a super strong, long arm 4 link with track bar, including new ultra heavy duty steering tie rod and drag link. <br>   A conversion with stock coils (gas preferred) from a donor axle will be similar to a 3-4” lift. Coil spacers or lift coils can raise things from there. This will greatly improve and modernize the ride quality and handling of the front of your truck. <br>   <span style="color: #ff2a00;"><em><strong>Parts are powder coat wrinkle black,</strong></em></span> request raw in notes if desired, custom colors available on request.</p> <p>   Included is a very complete kit;</p> <p><b>4 Link Long Arms</b>, 2” .250 wall and 1-3/4” .120 wall, axle end bushings, frame end 1.25 adjustable chromoly rod ends. Grade 8 bolts</p> <p><b>Link Arm Frame Brackets</b>. mount with and located by trans crossmember. <br><br><b>Tie Rod, Drag Link, Track Bar</b>, 1-1/2” .250 wall, with 7/8” adjustable chromoly rod ends and correct matching pitman arm.  <span>Grade 8 bolts</span></p> <p><b>Frame Mount Coil Brackets, </b>bolt on, integrated driver side track bar bracket and bracket brace. <span>Grade 8 bolts</span></p> <p><strong>Upper Shock Mounts </strong>(tower delete style) </p> <p><b>Coil spring adapter plates </b></p> <p><b>Caster Eliminator Plates.</b></p> <p> </p> <h1>Not Included, but necessary or optional:</h1> <p><strong>Shocks </strong>(necessary) many options including stock from donor axle truck</p> <p><strong>Upper Shock Mounts </strong>stock from donor truck  </p> <p><strong>Steering Input Shaft click here </strong>(your existing could possibly work if it already has a u-joint, but the stock cup/socket style cannot be re-used. It’s a horrible part anyway)</p> <p><strong>Steering Box Brace </strong>(<a href="https://farfromstockstore.com/products/72-93-steering-box-brace"><b>click here</b></a>, very important but totally optional)</p> <p><strong>Sway Bar </strong>(preference based but we do have a fabricated dom setup available)</p> <p><strong>Coils </strong>stock (gas preferably and rubber top coil isolators</p> <p><strong>3g AAM AXLE</strong> (sold separately) give us a call to purchase. <br><br></p> <p>It requires any left hand drive transfer case. Totally depends on their engine/trans combo but usually a 6 bolt transfer cases work, 241, 271, 273 even 205</p> <h2> <span style="color: #ff2a00;"></span>   * A 2wd frame will require a 4x4 engine crossmember. It’s not the worst to change or find, and we have our own <a href="https://farfromstockstore.com/products/1g-engine-cross-member?_pos=2&amp;_sid=bc546b8e0&amp;_ss=r" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">3 piece version. </a> Otherwise these frames are the same or very similar and are all good strong candidates for a build, regardless of them originally being diesel or gas. A 4x4 trans crossmember is also needed but it’s the easiest part to get and convert. We also have some options and info to make this work. <br>   ** A 2nd gen axle had a central axle disconnect that isn’t desirable, it also doesn’t have as high of a pinion to help driveshaft angles. It’s brakes aren’t as big as the 3rd gen. And although they are inexpensive and easy to find, so are the later axles. We have not thoroughly tested with the earlier axle like we have with the later. The 3rd gen axle doesn’t have the CAD, has a high pinion, and has a better suited track bar bracket. It is an overall heavier duty and physical weight axle. It can be trussed underneath to address one of the few foundational weak links (not found until you are jumping a heavy truck). Both axle sets need converted to a spin free hub design to be the reliable non maintenance axle they should be, this also gets you lock in/out hubs. we have a kit available for the 94-99 axle as well as a kit for 00-12. Additionally they each should be converted to a “good” ball joint (moog or equivalent “lifetime” replacements are JUNK) we have a couple good options that are actually a part you can expect to be a lifetime part (at least one great option is not available for the 00-02 axle, but good options do exist too). Regardless of the axle, and due to the overall weight difference between a first gen and the later trucks, we recommend the coils that came from a gas truck 2500/3500. The gas will ride the softest and sit a little lower, the diesel coils are the stiffer and slightly taller option and do still work well and provide a good ride. <br>***Caster Eliminator Plates fit axles from 03-13 will use <a href="https://farfromstockstore.com/products/2nd-and-3rd-gen-caster-eliminators"><b>this version</b></a>.</h2> <p> </p> <p><span>** 72-74 had a unique engine crossmember. We have frame brackets to match the rivet pattern on the side, but clearances are different and should be either swapped for a 75-93 version or kept up at at least 4” of lift. Please specify if you are keeping the 72-74 engine crossmember. It will require different parts. </span></p> <p><span> Sipping will be calculated after purchase. Starts at 350 and goes up.</span></p> <p><strong>Question Asked: </strong></p> <p><em>Is this something that could feasibly be done in the driveway with basic hand tools by somebody with basic automotive knowledge? Does it come with detailed instructions? Is there any way to make a driver side drop transfer case play nice with the stock computer so I can retain cruise control, overdrive, and make the stock speedometer and odometer work? Pretty sure all of that is controled through the VSS, which goes thru the PCM, and I'm pretty sure on the first gens, the VSS is driven from the t-case, and uses a gear ratio reducer or something like that to keep the signal to the VSS correct. A different driver side drop t-case would probably not work with that.<br></em></p> <p> <strong><em>Answer</em> <em></em>: </strong></p> <p> </p> <div>Although fairly extensive, this is a really simple swap. In a setting like a driveway, more work will go into setting the truck up on jack stands and removing rivets than actually installing the suspension and steering. Everything bolts in with some drilling. Setting the truck up nice and level with the new axle setup level too (even pretending for proper caster) at a ride height similar to the end result will help a lot. </div> <div>   As far as directions, they are included, but not necessarily detailed. Pretty straightforward. Some setup left to the individual customer because every situation is different. All the same general parameters though. </div> <div>   If wanting to keep a cable driven speedometer you will want an early 2g t-case, it has the same mechanical style speedo output. </div> <p> </p> <div dir="ltr"> <div dir="ltr"><br></div> </div>