Domaine de Marcoux - Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes 2019

Domaine de Marcoux was a pioneer in organic and biodynamic farming long before it was fashionable, which is now overseen by Catherine with assistance from Sophie’s son Vincent. They farm about 18 ha in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 8 ha in Lirac, and a little over 2 ha just north of Châteauneuf, where they make a lovely and nuanced Côtes-du-Rhône. There is a wide range of soil types from sandy soils in Charbonnières, to red clay and galets in L’Arnesque and Les Bouquets, to limestone and marl in Les Esquirons and Beaurenard, to red clay and gravel in Gallimardes, Les Serres, La Crau, and Les Plagnes. They grow Grenache primarily, with an average vine age of 50 years old, with smaller amounts of Mourvedre, Syrah, Cinsault, Roussanne, Bourboulenc, Clairette, and Grenache Blanc. The Vieilles Vignes, a cuvée made entirely from old-vine Grenache, made in vintages where the Grenache is abundant, rich and complex. It is sourced from the sandy soils of Charbonnières (planted 1900) the limestone marl of Esquierons (planted 1900/1949) and the gravelly red clay of Gallimardes (planted 1934/1959). It is aged entirely in 350L barrels for 18 months. While more concentrated and structured than the regular cuvée, it still possesses the delicate floral and spice character that is the signature of this domaine. "Marcoux's 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes is full-bodied, dense and tannic. Hints of crushed stone and dried garrigue appear on the nose, alongside blackberries and black cherries. It's basically pure foudre-aged Grenache from two lieux-dits—Charbonnières and les Esquierons—although the old vines undoubtedly include the odd interplanted variety. This terrific wine finishes long and silky, with layers of unfolding fruit and spice, including a dash of salted licorice. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes. The 2021 harvest had just finished when I arrived at Domaine Marcoux on the afternoon of October 2nd. I was greeted by Vincent Estevenin and his mother, Sophie Armenier. It was a relatively late vintage, punctuated by occasional rainfalls, so they were relieved to be done picking. The family's vineyards have been certified organic since 1991—among the first in the region. They work according to biodynamic principles but have never been certified in that regard." - 97 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate "Saturated ruby. A heady, impressively complex bouquet evokes ripe red fruits, candied flowers, garrigue and incense, along with exotic spice and mineral notes that build with air. Utterly stains the palate with vibrant raspberry liqueur, cherry cola, licorice and fruitcake flavors that are sharpened by a jolt of spiciness on the back half. Polished tannins add gentle grip to the strikingly long, floral-dominated finish, which shows no rough edges." - 97 points, Vinous "Old vines of Grenache, averaging 55 to 110 years of age, distinguish this ripe yet nuanced wine. Matured 18 months in neutral oak, it offers black-plum and preservedraspberry flavors that are richly concentrated but pure. Speckled with hints of licorice and smoke, it’s a feathery, sumptuous sip with a long, lifted finish. Approachable young, the wine should improve well past 2040." - 97 points, Wine Enthusiast Producer: Domaine de Marcoux Country: France Region: Rhône Valley Varietal: Grenache Appellation: Châteauneuf du Pape Vintage: 2019 Size: 750ml