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Operanide from IFF
Description and usage notes:
The Operanide molecule had its premiere at Simppar in early June 2023. For some 5 years, it was an IFF captive, but is now available for wider use, though it became available in the UK only in September 2023.
This is a very unusual material, with great diffusion and impact. Developed from work on Cashmeran chemistry; although it does not seem to have been mentioned by other commentators, it reminds this perfumer most of Norlimbanol but with added musky and creamy elements. Most people seem to find a great deal of complexity, as though it was a blend of other materials, and it is certainly very sophisticated.
One striking characteristic of this material is its function as a blending agent: try making an accord without it and then with; and you find that it's much harder to distinguish the individual components of the accord once Operanide is added - the accord becomes more rounded and complete.
It lasts for about 70 hours on a smelling strip and a single dipped strip can fill a huge space with the characteristic scent of this material in a few hours.
IFF describe their material like this: "Operanide was first synthesized while extending the chemistry of the Cashmeran® backbone with a ketal group. The addition of Operanide to the line of IFF proprietary amber molecules like Trisamber® and AmberXtreme™ makes this olfactive family very complete. The most creamy amber in the IFF ingredients portfolio. Diffusivity, woody-ambery and mossy nuances are characteristic qualities."
Arcadi Boix Camps is enthusiastic about Operanide: here is an extract from his extensive posts on it: “The marvellous molecule is powerful, and very mossy. A creamy soft amber woody jewel with gourmand nuances. Operanide, is a dry amber, Cedarwood, mellowed by Cashmeran and as IFF says an amber symphony captured by Operanide. It is one of the best molecules in the World. It is extremely strong having an exquisite elegance, a delicate amber smell, and a strong mossy note and a faint and subtle woody scent so diffusive, so tantalizing and so full of class. It has been used in many top fragrances amongst them Invictus for men by Paco Rabanne which cannot be reproduced without the IFF molecule.”IFF have created a pdf with further details about the material which is available here. Among other things the presentation includes some simple formulas to demonstrate aspects of the uses of Operanide.
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